Akyaka: A Turkish Gem Unspoiled by Time
A Beach Resort with a Difference
Imagine a beach scene, bathed in the warm glow of a setting sun, with mountains standing tall, their hues softening to a deep purple. This is Akyaka, a small town nestled on the eastern edge of Gökova Bay, a place that has captured my heart.
Akyaka's Allure: More Than Meets the Eye
Thirty years ago, as a holiday representative, I visited Akyaka weekly, checking in on clients staying in its humble pansiyons. Remarkably, the town has retained its charm, unlike many Turkish villages from the mid-1990s.
While Akyaka has evolved, with more houses, hotels, and an extended beach, it maintains a relaxed, authentic vibe. This is partly due to its status as one of Turkey's "slow towns," a movement focused on preserving local traditions and culture, and resisting the excesses of tourist development.
The town's unique character is also influenced by the legacy of Turkish poet and architect Nail Çakirhan, who retired here in 1971. Çakirhan's house, a blend of traditional Ottoman design and local materials, set a standard for architecture that is still followed today. The result is a streetscape of elegant houses, with wood-carved balconies overflowing with bougainvillea, a far cry from the modern, glass-walled structures often associated with tourism.
Akyaka's Modern Appeal
When I returned to Akyaka in 2022 with my husband, Mark, we were captivated. The absence of large all-inclusive resorts means the town remains predominantly a Turkish tourist destination, attracting visitors for its fish restaurants along the Azmak River, hiking trails through the Akyaka orman, or simply for a relaxing day of knitting on the beach.
Our accommodation of choice is the İskelem Otel, located across the pine forest, a short drive from town. Initially, we were unsure about the sunloungers and lawned area instead of a beach, but the warm welcome from Müjgan, the receptionist, and the stunning views from our room quickly won us over. In the evenings, the İskelem transforms, with sunloungers replaced by candlelit tables for dinner on the jetty, surrounded by the sea.
The culinary delights at İskelem are unforgettable: sea bream with crispy skin and a tangy lemon and salt dressing, smooth and dense Adana kebabs, silky aubergine, garlic-infused yogurt, and baklava so sticky and sweet it leaves us buzzing.
Akyaka's Watersports Haven
For my husband, Mark, Akyaka's beauty is enhanced by its reputation as one of the Mediterranean's leading watersports destinations. The thermic winds that blow across the gulf from May to November are a watersports enthusiast's dream, providing consistent, onshore winds of 15 to 18 knots, perfect for kiteboarding and wing-foiling. Akçapinar Beach, a short drive from town, is a hub for these activities, with its colorful kite-surf flags billowing in the breeze.
Exploring Beyond Akyaka
Beyond Akyaka, there's plenty to discover. Göcek, with its gulets and sailing-hub vibe, the serene blue waters of Lake Köyceğiz flanked by sweetgum forests, and the Muğla market, a breathtaking drive up into the mountains, offer a unique experience away from the tourist trail.
Turkey's Changing Landscape
Turkey is evolving. What was once a popular summer sun destination has become more diverse, with luxury resorts catering to the super-rich, health tourism, and all-inclusive ghettos. Hyperinflation and economic policies have driven up prices, making Turkey less of a budget option.
Akyaka's Resistance
Akyaka, however, remains a place that resists these categories. It offers a more authentic Turkish experience, with reasonable prices, especially for domestic tourists. One of our favorite dining spots is the Azmak Çorba Salonu, where a fresh pide, grilled chicken, and a tangy sumac salad cost around £30 for two.
Akyaka's Charm
If you're seeking late-night cocktail bars, Michelin-starred restaurants, or swanky spa resorts, Akyaka might not be your cup of tea. But for those who appreciate a more laid-back, authentic experience, Akyaka is a gem. It's Turkish coffee and simit for breakfast, backgammon on the jetty in the afternoon, and iced Efes as the sun sets over Gökova Bay. Akyaka makes me wonder, why would I choose anywhere else in Turkey?
Rooms at the İskelem start from £105-£260 B&B, and the Yücelen, a traditional Ottoman-style hotel in town, offers doubles from £95 B&B.
